Travelog - Kerala 2007

Kerala – 07

This is a detailed travelog of my holiday to the Vembanad backwaters in August 2007.

It was around 12 noon on the day of our journey, that our holiday was confirmed! Till then, things were not too sure, with the politicians threatening a rail roko to stop all trains to and from Kerala. Though this had overcast and dampened our holiday spirits, we eagerly packed, planned the last minute details for the holiday.

Never before has Central station been so happy, joyous and exciting for us. We could laugh and smile and giggle at anything and everything. The train pulled in and we boarded our coach, stacked the luggage and took our seats. We talked, laughed, read books and poked fun at one another for a while. Then we made our beds and went to sleep.

The next morning, we woke up to see the vegetation and greenery that Kerala is. The train chugged along as we adored the coconut, rubber tree and plantain groves. At quarter past eight, we reached Kottayam station.

As we drove out of Kottayam, we watched the narrow state highway with awe. Had it been Tamil Nadu, trees would be chopped, houses razed and roads broadened. But Kerala has decided to survive with narrow roads and minds (what else do you say of a state that refuses its abundant water resource to its needy neighboring state).

After a 14 odd kilometer drive, we reached the Tharavadu Heritage Home in Kumarakom. In Malayalam, Tharavadu connotes, ancestral. Just as we got off the vehicle, a flock of ducks came towards us, quaking loudly, as if to welcome us to their beautiful land. We were allotted a room, where we could stretch, refresh, have bath and get ready for our house boat journey. We dumped the luggage in our room and scampered around the place, with child-like excitement.

It is pretty difficult to verbally describe the House. It is set in a 3 acre piece of land. Once upon a time, it must have been a huge bungalow with large gardens all around the compound. Today, a part of it is restored and promoted as a stylish tourist home. The beauty of the ancient buildings and the facilities of the modern day have been tastefully blended. There are about 10 rooms, some of them with air condition facility. The rooms are flanked by verandahs, both in front as well as the rear. These dreamy verandahs are ideal locations for one to slump into the bamboo chair and dive into an interesting book, listen music to suit the mood or to have a lively chat. The bamboo blinds keep away the direct sunlight and mild drizzle.

A small, cozy dining room overlooking the canal and Kumaramagalam temple is an ideal place to enjoy the food prepared in their tiny, yet able kitchen. The open courtyard between the dining room and the guest rooms surprises you with a pebble garden. A barefooted walk on this loosely paved pebble land is a sure refreshment for the pressure points in the walker’s feet. There is a small kids’ play area beyond which it is wilderness. We tried to explore the place, but upon seeing a snake pit, we decided to be sensible cowards! Looking at the wilderness that lay ahead with the narrow water canal winding through the property, we felt it should be promoted in a much better fashion. A canoe row through the canal or nature walks would be an ecstatic experience in the lap of nature.

We had a refreshing bath, followed by coffee. For breakfast, we had the traditional Kerala aapam and vegetable stew. After the late breakfast, we packed bags for our one day trip in the house boat and left the remaining luggage in the office room. At 12 noon, we set out in 2 autorikshaws to the boat jetty, which is about 5 kms from Tharavadu.

Excitement caught on, as we were shown our house boat. We enthusiastically clambered into it and explored every bit of it. For about five minutes, we were a bunch of children and these voices were heard all over the place, hey, look at this. Wow! This is going to be exciting. Oh! How cute! And look at this!!

Here is a quick description of our house boat. The front end had the mariner’s wheel, and devices related to driving and maneuvering the boat. As you enter the boat, you step into the living and dining area. This area is open at the sides and furnished with a television and music system (who on earth would want to see and hear man made stuff, while nature serves a splendid feast!!) a dining table, chairs and a comfortable sofa. Going past the living area, is a corridor, which runs along the length of the boat. On one side of the corridor are the windows and supporting shelter. To the right, two bed rooms with attached baths.

The huge windows in the bedrooms overlook the lake providing ample light and ventilation. Between the two bedrooms on the corridor, is a small wash basin. Beyond the bedrooms, we find a small, warm and cute kitchen, equipped to cook fresh, lovely food. The rear end of the house boat serves as a utility area for the crew.

As we finished one round of our exploration, we came back to the dining area and saw a ladder going up. We discovered that the houseboat had an upper deck, were we could sit on chairs or on the floor, for a beautiful view. Of course, we could not stand. But that was of least importance to us. One by one, we climbed up the ladder and sat there, talking at the top of our voices. We could see a vast expanse of water, trees and bushes on the other side of the bank and brawny women oaring small canoes across the water.

When we were planning this holiday, while scanning through the tour package, we noticed a line which said that the houseboat would welcome the guest with a fruit basket. We were eager to know what the fruit basket would contain and we were jocularly commenting that it would contain a pineapple and a jackfruit – fruits that the guest wouldn’t be able to consume easily. And lo! We broke into a loud laughter when we saw a pineapple and a bunch of bananas in the fruit basket.

We set sail at 1 pm. As we set out into the lake, it began drizzling gently. All of us were seated on the upper deck, enjoying every bit of what Mother Nature was flaunting. Minutes later, the boys climbed down to change into casual clothing and they remained in the lower deck. We girls continued to bask in the beauty of nature. For a while we sat on the chairs and for some time on the floor. Each provided a different view and experience. The boat was steering far into the lake. It was water all around, and we could see only a silhouette of the trees bordering the lake. The drizzle gained momentum and it was raining. We continued to sit there, allowing the rain gods to touch, feel and run over us. It was an ecstatic feeling for us and the rains. It was one of the times when we are ready to romance with the rain. We didn’t have pressing work to attend to, a cell phone or gadget to shield from the rain, the fear of spoiling a nice dress, most of all, we were on a holiday, this feeling let us loose and we enjoyed getting wet in the rain. It was bliss to sit out there and jabber.

As the boat was moving ahead, we saw a drove of ducks in the water. They were hundreds of them moving from this bank to the other. They were ahead of us and when the boat neared them, they beautifully split into two groups and gave way for the boat, lest they be hurt! And after the boat passed them, they joined again as a group and proceeded. It was astonishing to see the manner in which they reacted to an oncoming vehicle. Better than any mortal on mount road!

The winds got stronger and it was getting a bit difficult to control, so we went down to the lower deck. At 2.30 pm we halted for lunch at a scenic place. The rains had stopped. We were served a mini Sadya! The lunch included, rice, sambar, avial, vendakka curry, cabbage-carrot curry, more, urugai, papadam, banana and payasam. We enjoyed the lunch, except for the curd which was not prepared properly.

Post lunch, there wasn’t much rain and we sat in the living area in the lower deck and watched the cormorants diving and fishing. After the crew had lunch, we moved on. The skies had cleared and the weather was pleasant. As we sailed into the waters of Alapuzha district, captain Dilip pointed out to a house on the shore and said that it belonged to ex-cricketer, Ajay Jadeja. This Dilip, captain of the crew was gulping a peg of alcohol every now and then and by sunset he was in an inebriated state. It was then that we christened him Steady Shanmugam!!

On and off, big and small house boats sailed past us and we were overjoyed to notice that most of the boats did not have the upper deck that our boat had. What an attitude! To be happy that you have something that others don’t have! Around 5 pm, we were served hot coffee and tea with pazhampuri as accompaniment. Pazhampuri is a bajji prepared from nendhrampazham. The boat docked at a small village in Alapuzha district, where the cook Mahesh, got off to buy eggs and grocery. Again, we sailed till 6 pm, where we stopped for the night. Two other boats joined us and the three boats docked in a row, along a thickly wooded grove.

As the sun set, we were concerned about the mosquito and insects that would swarm in to share the boat with us. We sat in the living area in the boat. We dabbed ourselves liberally with odomos and sat in the lower deck, watching the life and nature around us. But for occasional exchanges, we enjoyed gazing at the water, the setting sun, rising moon, long, dancing shadows in the water. If one has the ability to open oneself to nature and delve into the depths of consciousness, staying out in the water, mountains, watching skies really unwinds, refreshes and rejuvenates our body, mind and soul.

The plates and bowls sounded out that dinner was ready, we washed and had a splendid dinner. It was BIG rotis, dal fry, mixed vegetable subzi and scrambled eggs.

After dinner, we again packed ourselves into one of the bedrooms and started on a long session of chat, mimicry, fun and laughter. After a couple of hours, we went to bed and had peaceful, sound sleep. There wasn’t a mosquito or insect to bother us.

It was past 6 in the morning, when we woke up to see the waters glistening in the rising sun. A relaxed coffee session, watching the waters made the holiday perfect. Idli, dosa, chutney and sambar arrived for breakfast. We packed our bags and got ready to check out of the house boat. Initially, there was a trouble as the house boat engine refused to start up. Then, the crew set it right by borrowing the batteries (!) from a neighboring boat and we set sail again. Half an hour journey across the lake and we reached the boat jetty where we had started the previous day. Needless to say, this journey was again beautiful with the sun shining bright on the waters and the trees and plants were happy to receive the sunlight as they happily received the rains on the previous day. Thanked the crew and disembarked from the house boat, drove in autorikshaws to Tharavadu Heritage Home.

We checked into air conditioned rooms this time. Had a refreshing hot bath, the girls looked very much like native keralites! They had their wet hair let loose, adorned the onam poduva, smeared sandalwood paste on their forehead, to tune in to the native Onam festival mood. Being a tourist village, the festivities were rather quiet. We left for the Kumaramangalam ambalam to find it shut for the morning session. Sat in the mandap of Sri Narayana guru and lazed for a while. Sadya, the feast associated with Onam, was served out on banana leaves. It was tasty and lovely. We enjoyed the nendaram chips, chakkaravattam, cabbage curry, avail, pavakai kootaan, pachadi, puli inji, elumicha poondu urugai, more milagai, saadham, parupu puliserry, sambar, pappadam, and banana, poricha more and more. And finally we had the ada pradhaman. It was a lovely Sadya indeed. After such a sumptuous lunch, the next logical activity would be a siesta. Isn’t it? And we did the same.

Woke up, freshened up and left for the sunset cruise at fifteen minutes past five. The mood was generally good. We used the exit gate near the canal to reach the boat. Mahima the boat journeyed us through the canal. It was a great feeling to have a huge passenger boat exclusively for our evening cruise. The sail on the canal was good. We quietly watched the houses, trees, people and their activities. Slowly the scene changed. Little did we realize what was in store for us.

The narrow canal opened into a huge water body! It was such a lovely sight. There was water everywhere. The beauty was in the fact that we did not know we were heading towards such a huge water body. We turned left and crossed a small chapel. Along the bank were a number of cottages, guest houses and groves. As we sailed further, we noticed the water dotted with patches of land here and there. Along came Radisson resort. It was beautiful. Each cottage had a tiny private swimming pool and it was luxurious to watch the cottages. Another resort had a pretty little clock tower with an open space where one could sit and witness the sunset and sunrise. A lady was seated there, watching the sun taking cover into the waters of Vembanad Lake.

We enjoyed the water hyacinth jumping up and down in the water, the plump, brown kingfishers which hardly moved. It was water everywhere. After a good half an hour, we headed back towards the starting point. Our eyes feasted on the scenic beauty once again.

Back on land, we got off at the temple bank and paid a visit to kumaramanagalam. It was a quiet temple, neat and peaceful. We walked back to Tharavadu Heritage Home and discussed the various options for the following day. We considered Ayurveda massage, a visit to the bird sanctuary and finally settled for a boat ride to an island called R Block. They told us that the island lay below sea level! This was enough for us to set our imagination run berserk. We visualized a Robinson Crusoe and talked of Amsterdam where the city is below sea level! But, this time we were in for a disappointment. R Block was a regular village on an island. We could set foot only at the boat jetty. We were offered tender coconuts and they advised us against exploring the island. We returned to the boat and the journey back was rather glum, in spite of the endless water stretches, trees, birds, greenery and bright skies.

Back at Tharavadu, we had breakfast, packed our bags and bid adieu to Renu chaechi and drove down to the driftwood museum. Raji Punnosse, retired teacher, proudly shared her experiences. She is a curator, who collected drift wood pieces from the Andaman Islands after every cyclone, chipped of the bigger branches and finally arrived at a sculpture (made by the ocean waves) of a bird, animal or whatever it appears to her. She has about hundred odd exhibits, all polished and stylishly displayed.

We drove to Alapuzha, had a panoramic view of the boat race finishing point. It was lovely to see the waterways winding alongside the roads, throughout the town. No wonder, it is being used as a means of transport. Went to the beach and we 3 dipped our feet in the cement grey sands and waters of the Arabian Sea.

Just as we left Alapuzha, it started raining heavily. After driving for an hour, we reached Cochin. A friend suggested that we visit the Taj Malabar Coffee Shop overlooking the port, where we could see huge ships and also Dolphins playing in the water. We drove past the port yard which is a huge and altogether a different world. Containers, Lorries parked on either sides of the broad road. There are small and big clearing agents’ offices all over the place. We reached Taj Malabar, freshened up and went to the Coffee Shop. We were not lucky enough to sight Dolphins or huge ships. But we saw a small cargo support service ship! We took a stroll in the lawns, had excellent coffee and accompaniments.

As we drove out of Taj Malabar, it started raining. We headed to Fort Cochin, where we were supposed to stay. After a long and bit of tiresome drive, we reached Cochin Fort Inn. It is a cozy 17th century building converted into a ‘home stay’. Originally it was a Dutch building. The people promoting the place have converted the building into a boarding house. The wooden flight of stairs, narrow corridors, arched windows with broad sills, huge walls wooden beams on the ceiling and doorways reminded me of my school run by a Jesuit convent. The balcony gave a glimpse of the sea. We had a simple bought out dinner and hit the bed early after a short chat session. The rooms were done up really well, with a perfect blend of the ancient architecture and furniture, interspersed with the fittings and facilities of the modern day.

Early next morning, we left for a friend’s place for breakfast. As we drove along, we could have a glimpse of Fort Cochin in the daylight and understand that it was a real ancient place.

Next, we headed for the oldest church, dedicated to Vascodagama. It is believed that Vasco was buried here and years later, the casket was dug out and flown to Lisbon, probably the hometown of the adventurous Portugal. At the church, we read the Jesuit prayer, carved out in the ancient English and tried to understand how the prayer had evolved and changed into the modern English.

We drove along the beach, witnessed the Chinese fishing nets in action, stopped over at a few shops to rummage through the knickknacks. We then drove to Mattancherry, the area where the Dutch Palace, curio shops, Jew town are located. Amidst heavy rain, we visited the Dutch Palace. Only a portion of the Palace is open to visitors. It is the usual, painting, mural, jewelry, robes, weapons and palanquins on display. It was not very interesting, was just another Palace.

We walked down the lane which housed many antique shops. Occasionally, we moved in and out of a few shops, gaping at the articles, yelping at the prices and wondering the story behind each curio piece. We visited the shop which had the world’s biggest varapu on display.

The next place we went to was the Jewish synagogue. The gallery displayed many paintings that depicted the life and history of the Jews in Kerala. The Altar was covered with a curtain and we could only seat ourselves in the small prayer hall which had numerous old fashioned chandeliers and really old fans. We sat there for a while.

Hunted a few shops for spices and we drove back to Cochin Fort Inn. We packed our bags, checked out of Fort Inn and drove to Le Meridian. We had one of the exotic lunches we have had in the recent times. The buffet spread was wide and tasty. From there we drove to the railway station. There was a slight confusion if we could board the train at the earlier station itself. We decided to check it out and drove along. We were held in the traffic, the first and only traffic hold up during our 4 day stay in Kerala!

We reached the Station, boarded the train and had fun talking and joking and we tried pushing away the thought that the holiday was nearing the end… but, these holidays pep you up to continue your routine with improved zeal. It also helps you learn more about yourself and the world around you. In all, it definitely helps you evolve into a better person. So, let’s holiday more often…